FAQ-Waves/Tides

1. Construct a table showing typical values of wave length, period, group, phase, and particle velocities for:
a. Deep water waves
b. Internal waves
c. Rossby waves
d. Kelvin waves
e. Capillary waves
2. Which of the 4 wave properties (period, wavelength, amplitude, phase) do not change for a linear wave?
3. What does a "dispersion relation" tell you?
4. What is the net (averaged over several wave periods) displacement of a particle in a linear wave field?
5. How can a wave traveling in 5000-m deep water be a "shallow" wave?
6. Where does the wave energy dissipating on California beaches originate from? How long does it take a 10 seconds wave from New Zealnad to break on San Diego beaches?
7. Which environmental factors determine the amount of energy in a wave?
8. How does a smart surfer take advantage of the nonlinear wave field near a beach moving both onshore (surfing) and offshore ("paddling" back to where the wave breaks)?
9. Suppose the surface tension of the hydrosphere was suddenly reduced to zero. What impact, if any, would this make on our lives?
10. Describe what happens when the sound pulse from a spark gun strikes the ocean bottom.
11. How does the restoring force of an internal gravity wave in a two layer system differ from the restoring force of a surface gravity wave?
12. What is the shortest possible period of an internal wave in a contineously stratified fluid?
13. What determines the wave speed of a sea level pertubation caused by an earth quake? How long does it take for a tsunami to transmit the energy and an underwater earthquake off Alaska to Hawaii?
14. What is the across-shore momentum (or force) balance of a Kelvin wave?
15. What is the along-shore momentum (or force) balance of a Kelvin wave?
16 Where do you find the largest amplitude of a Kelvin wave?
17. How can you reconcile the fact that the gravitational attractive force of the moon causes a bulge towards the moon also causes a bulge away from the moon? Would this not imply that the moon also pushes water away rather than attracting it?
18. What is the effect of the earth's rotation on the tide generating force?
19. What is the effect of the vertical component of the tide generating force on ocean tides?
20. What is the effect of the horizontal component of the tide generating force on ocean tides?
21. Why are the tides in the Great Lakes hardly noticeable?
22. Does the tide generating force affect land masses?
23. Why do the largest tidal amplitudes almost always occur near the coast?
24. What could cause a tidal amphidromic system where the tidal sea level oscillation is zero? Whould you expect large or small tidal currents under such a "node?"

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